Onsdag 14. August
The group awoke from their night's sleep at the Rolstad Campsite near Dombås, refreshed after their travels by bus and train and ready for their expedition. For today we were were going to take on a two-day hike along a small segment of the Pilgrim's Way.
In traditional Ventures spirit, objects were hung from the bridge over the river, visible for all to see. This trip, the legs acquired yesterday were strategically arranged by two early risers who shall remain nameless. Bemused looks from German and Dutch tourists supported beliefs that it was a strange sight, pleasing even the strictest of Venture leaders.
Three hours behind time the bus was loaded and fifteen happy faces (especially Phil who would be getting a couple of days peace) were ready to begin the walk. After a journey of nearly an hour, we were thrown out of the bus with our bags and told to 'op it' - so we started our 15km walk for the day.
The Pilgrim's Way
The Pilgrim's Way is a route taken by travellers on pilgrimage to Nideros Cathedral Trondheim. A thousand years ago Trondheim, then Nideros, was capital of Norway, Olav Tryggvasson's city, and the resting place of King Olav Haraldson, who became St Olav. Though Olav Tryggvason had attempted to introduce Christianity to Norway in the late 10th century, many Norwegians still clung to their pagan gods and it was only after the death of his successor, Olav Haraldson, at the battle of Stiklestad some 30 years later that Christianity acquired a focal point in Norway. Olav's men buried him in sandy ground near the river but when miracles began to happen he was moved to the town's only church. Then, according to the sagas, a spring began to flow near his first grave and "men were healed of their ills by the waters." The king was declared a saint and a martyr.
His nephew, Olav Kyrre, built the great stone church over the place where the saint's body had lain which is now Nidaros Cathedral and Trondheim's finest building. Once again, the saint's body was moved and the cathedral became a place of pilgrimage, many making the long walk north from Oslo and Hamar or through Sweden. Thus Trondheim (or Nideros as it was earlier known) became the religious as well as the political centre of the Norwegian kingdom, whose interests and dominions spread to the Shetlands, Iceland, Greenland, Hebrides, Ireland, Orkney, England. So between the 8th and 13th centuries Trondheim was a place of major importance in the North of Europe, drawing people from all areas.
In 1997, to mark the founding of Trondheim (Nidaros) by King Olav Tryggvason in 997, the routes traditionally used by pilgrims from Oslo, Hamar and the Swedish border near Sul were restored and reopened, waymarked with posts and stones bearing the cross symbol above. Many new 'pilgrims' have walked these ancient ways - the 44th was about to do its tiny bit between Vårstigen and Risgrenda, just to the south of Oppdal.
Between scaring sheep and drinking from our canteens, our walk lasted six hours and took us along the ancient pilgrim's road and up onto the edges of Dovrefjell, a particulary picturesque part of the Norwegian landscape. On our journey we passed many huts, or saeter, which had been abandoned a long time ago. These would have been used in times not so long gone by, as summer residences for the local people while tending their animals on the summer pastures of the high mountains. The second group, who set out half an hour after the first, got to within 5 minutes of the the first group, even with Stubby in tow! A certain element of competition now entered between the two walking groups and set a mood of ill-ease as the sun started to sink towards the horizon and camping pitches were sought. A little flat, grassy hillock near to good water supply became the choice of both parties, camps were set at either end and suppers of elk stew and pasta devoured. The divides were set and a battle was imminent when Phil drove up on the nearby winding mountain track to act as peace-keeper!
As the little valley we had chosen for our over-night halt sunk ever deeper into the gloom of dusk, nursing sore feet the groups retired to their designated tents, to prepare for the next day's walking, while a certain 19 year old was waiting in anticipation for his birthday treats!
JOYCEY - aka STUBBY
The Pilgrim's Way as it passes through Ryphusen.
One of the few inhabited saeter we passed.
Tirsdag 15. August
Cascading its way across the land, ever creeping, ever warming, the sun was meant to gently warm us awake, yet due to the slight matter of a 1000m ridge it was Dan Dales calming chants of "Get up! It's six-thirty!" that brought me around. Due to the lack of sun it also meant no heat, so the ample warmth experienced during the night had given way to a cold morning.
After a slow rousing, our group went straight to breakfast. Anticipating a long day ahead, it was double Alpen bonanza! The sun still hadn't climbed high enough above the ridge to greet us, so pulling my socks up high, I hurdled the river and went to find the sun to warm my frozen extremities.
Looking from below it seemed an easy task to reach the illuminated pasture but I was deceived and spent what seemed like ages to reach the Golden Fleece. But it was worth it, to slowly regain feeling whilst observing below was great. In the camp I even saw the other group stirring like ants on the 'commi' side of the Berlin Wall - so the boundary between our two sets of tents had been named last night.
Being in Team A we were eager to make an early start and get underway well before Team B, thus preserving the natural order of things. So it was that just as the sun was going to hit our camp we moved off.
Having a clearly marked path and fresh legs we made good pace at the beginning, walking in our group of five. However under strict orders from Adam we were told to stop after 1 hour so stop we did; as it happened by a map which showed us where we were. When Pete and Adam caught up with us we were quite glad that our map reading skills hadn't deserted us and after skimming a few stones on the river we carried on.
The walking wasn't hard nor the navigation taxing, so much so that Andy and I ran some parts having so much energy. Must have been the double Alpen! One part we didn't run was a steep uphill section and we were soon worn by that. We paused for a while at a branch in the path - take the road or the lesser pilgrim path? We waited for 20 minutes for Adam and Pete to catch us up, testimony to our hard walking but also that stop had allowed Team B to catch up as well! Enfuriated and shocked by this we were determined to take our revenge so 'beasted' the next section running the easy parts and with rest and rage on our side we were checked by none; but then we were checked by five.
For as we turned the next corner, in the pilgrim's path we came face to face with five bull cows. Immediately stopping we decided what to do; they were blocking the entire path so we had to circumnavigate them. To the right was lower but had forest, to the left was high land covered by grass. We opted for the higher route. With five heads following our progress we continued around the 'diversion' to regain our path.
The main thing I noticed about our journey was the scenery: it was magnificent. Everywhere you looked there was some natural wonder that would've drawn thousands in England but here in Norway, it is the norm and we hardly came across anybody else during our hike. There were hidden lakes, clear as glass with a pure sun glistening off the surface like a thousand fish (none of which Stubby'd catch). Or endless forest spreading as far as the eye could see, turning vermilion red amongst the dashes of green. Then you see the mountains, one after another sprouting from the ground like the trees which inhabit them. Today I had to force myself to look at them all. As always when you have too much of a good thing its grace and beauty seems diminished (like the Oslo blondes) but when it's taken away you then really miss it. So today I was looking and remembering them all: the distant snow fields, the high up grass plateaus and jagged rock jutting forth, so when I go back to England I won't miss, but appreciate.
Always taking the red pilgrim's path, we tried to put more distance between us and Team B. Encountering many sheep along the way we came to our first actual pilgrim's building. Unfortunately we had no idea what it actually was. Yet I did make a discovery. At all Pilgrim Way stops there is a wooden board with a red clip on it. These clips imprint a pattern with a Roman numeral, so as you walk along the Pilgrim's Way you can collect all the stamps from each of the sites you pass or visit.
With that behind us, we slogged along the clearly marked path till we encountered the E6 road and success - 30km completed! And what did we see across the road but a Co-op with picnic tables; we were strangely drawn to it.
Later on the other group finished as well and for lunchtime entertainment we had the older members A2 & AS exam results relayed via mobile phone. Luckily they were all very good and congratulations to Matt and Rich H who got the grades they needed for their chosen universities.
Also today it was Adam's 20th birthday - no more teenage parties for him! So it was birthday cake and 'Happy Birthday' for him who is now over the hill.
With that done we went onto Oppdal packed into the minibus. Here several of the group were left with Phil to get the Dombås train while Pete drove the rest of us back in the van. While waiting for the train, we had an hour or so to kill, so Rob and I investigated the local shopping centre and were teased by the many copies of Lord of the Rings DVD, available here long before its release in the UK, still 5 days away. We would have to be patient! Still we replenished our chocolate stores and Stubby even became a beggar and got 2 Kroner for his trouble!
The way back by minibus was sleepy but pleasant and we were only woken by the clamorous bawling of the train party arriving back in Dombås. Still dinner was needed so we stopped in the town centre to get the provisions which gave us time for a photo with Adam (the Troll not the person). After a quick re-arrange of the tents, they were soon up and a game of cricket underway - you can take the man out of England but not the England out of the man!
Because it was his birthday Adam made dinner of beef stew and rice, after which during the speeches he was presented with a card and a book about Norwegian Walking Routes (in Norwegian - tee-hee).
CHRIS